So I found another cheap ride on, surprise surprise, Ridemonkey. I'll copy and paste its description, a link to pictures, and the PM the guy sent me. So again, my wise friends, I ask you: Should I buy this bike for this price?
The link:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...threadid=85607
The description:
I've got a M/L Cheeta Prowler, complete, for $600 + shipping.
Specs are as follows:
M/L Cheeta Prowler
Marzocchi Jr. T
Avid Disc Brakes F/R
Avid Speed Dial 1.9L levers
On-One Reetard Stem
Azonic Doublewall Risers
Shimano LX Shifter
Race Face LP Cranks
Sun-Ringle Zuzu Pedals
LX BB
Evil SRS Chainguide
Fox Vanilla RC Shock
Deore Rear Derailleur
Front Wheel: 26" Rhyno-Lite XL with XT Hub
Rear Wheel: 24" Doublewide with XT Hub
Front Tire: 2.7 Mobster
Rear Tire: 2.6 Gazzy
So what's the catch? Well the bike does have a couple problems. You'll need to get a new shock pivot bushing (it squeaks), new cranks (the non drive side does not stay tight, the square surface is kind of gouged so it doesn't mate well with the BB), new pedals (one of the pedal axles is bent), and a new chainguide (the Evil doesn't work on this bike).
Now, as mentioned above, the Evil doesn't fit this bike and I learned that the hard way. The chainguide nuts that secure the upper part of the guide protrude out and make contact with the swingarm. Because of this it has dug a nice little notch out of the swingarm as well as having scraped the metal from the round circle to the bottom of the pivot bolt. It's hard to see in the pictures but the notch itself is around 2-3mm deep. I'm no engineer but the wear does not seem to be structural. I've ridden the bike for over a year and have had no problems with the swingarm because of this.
The head of the pivot bolt on the drive side is stripped out and the non drive side is slightly rounded. I have new pivot bolts that I'll include.
Overall the bike is in good condition. The swingarm has some tire rub, the stanctions on the fork are almost perfect, the lowers are scratched. The bike's got cable rub and some scratches, all normal wear. Brand new front tire (one ride) and the rear wheel was just rebuilt.
PM me with any questions or for more pictures.
The PM I got:
I have the new pivot bolts that I'm including with the frame, so that's just a matter of figuring out a way to get the old ones out and then put in the new ones. However, there is nothing wrong with the pivot itself, it's just if you ever wanted to take it apart.
The cranks are just an annoyance. The non-drive side comes loose, but if you carry an allen you can just crank it tight again. If you really wanted to fix that you'd need a new set of square taper cranks.
The shock pivot bushing is around $10-15 and whatever a shop would charge to press it in. Again, it's just an annoyance, as you can hear the slight amount of play in the shock.
You can run the chainguide how it is, it'll still work, although not to it's full potential because it's not in the right position, and if you put it in the right position you'll gouge the frame like I did.
One of the pedal axles is bent as well, so a new set of pedals would probably be good.
Bottom line is no money is needed to get the running. However, if you don't want to have to tighten the cranks every so often or you can't stand the slightly crooked pedal then you're looking at the cost of those.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Basically, my opinions are as follows: it seems to me the brakes are mechanical, which kind of sucks but maybe I could swap them with my hydraulics on my HT, the fork isn't really big and would probably need to be replaced soon, the cranks would need to be replaced as well as changing the BB to ISIS (but I'm sure RaceFace would help out if the cranks got messed up bad, 'cuz those guys rock and I have shop friends), and the pedals would need to be swapped out (not a bad thing). So the real question is, is it worth the cost?
Thank ye.
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